ON THE 50TH ANNIVERSARY OF Lincoln Center
The papers have been full of celebrations of the 50th
anniversary of Lincoln Center. The praise for New York’s premier performing
arts center is well deserved, but dislocations it caused have been brushed off
too easily. The neighborhood in the West 60s was neither dire nor depraved, as
the official remembrances would have us believe.
I know, because the construction of Lincoln Center was the
soundtrack of my high school years.(In 1960, less than a year after the ground-breaking
ceremonies at Lincoln Center, my family returned to the U.S. after several
years in Africa and Europe. My parents, international civil servants from
Haiti, called the Board of Education about a high school and were told that I
lived in the zone for the High School of Commerce. Getting to school was just a
quick walk down Broadway from our apartment on 72nd Street.
I remember the neighborhood around Lincoln Square as a
vibrant, mostly-white, working to middle-class community, a busy mix of shops,
diners and modest stores on Broadway. Families lived in the apartments along
the side streets while artists, musicians and the occasional drug addict resided
in the many brownstones that still served as boarding houses and SROs. One
luncheonette near the 66th street IRT station delivered your order on
an electric train that circled above the counter. ABC Television, then an
also-ran third network after CBS and NBC, occupied barebones offices and
studios above the stores and supermarkets along Broadway between 66th
and 72nd streets. WINS, a hot
Top 40 station opposite the Coliseum, was the anchor at Columbus Circle.
I walked down one Saturday to see Murray the K host a live rock
‘n roll concert. I was shocked that the youthful voice on the radio was much
older than he sounded (Murray must be at least 40, this 14-year-old estimated)
and he wore a toupee. He would achieve national fame by attaching himself to
the Beatles on their first U.S. tour a couple of years later.
Commerce’s hulking tan brick building on 65th
street dated to 1902.(The buildings on the left in the background of the photo). Originally built for boys only, the school housed some
3,000 co-ed students in the 1960s and sat across the street from the site of
the new arts center. In my three years, my education was punctuated by the
sounds of blasting, drilling and building. In my senior year, the ramp across
65th street (now torn down again in the renovation of Lincoln
Center) stuck through the hole in our library wall, a warning that we would
soon be gone.
High school was my introduction to the subtleties of race
and class in New York as well. The school had an illustrious history. Commerce counted
impresario Billy Rose and composer George Gershwin among its alumni. Yankee
great Lou Gehrig, dressed in his Commerce baseball and soccer uniforms, looked
out from the ancient team pictures on the walls along with white teammates with
mostly German and Jewish names.
But by 1960, the student body was 80 percent black and
Hispanic, from Washington Heights, Harlem and East Harlem. Most of the handful
of white students from the West Side and the Village and the smattering of
middle class blacks attended the “Lincoln Park Honor School,” an essentially
segregated entity within Commerce that had even had it own third floor
cafeteria. We got college prep courses and AP classes; the rest of the students
were being trained for jobs as clerks, bookkeepers and receptionists.
Commerce’s low status – and imminent demolition – meant a
lot of neglect by school authorities. The building ran on direct current
instead of the alternating current that had been standard for more than 50
years. We needed noisy converters for all our audiovisual equipment. The
swimming pool had been broken for at least 30 years.
We had no ball fields, of course, but our teams practiced in
Central Park, a few blocks away. Commerce basketball was a perennial power, even
in the early 1900s, with a team starring Nat Holman, who would go on to play
for the Original Celtics and coach City College
to NCAA and NIT titles. In one stretch that included my three years
there, Commerce made the public school playoffs at Madison Square Garden for 23
consecutive years. To practice against decent competition, our team scrimmaged regularly
with nearby Power Memorial, a big-time Catholic school, and its star player,
Lew Alcindor. I’d often see the future Kareem Abdul-Jabbar towering above his
friends at the 66th Street subway station. Yet, it was our star
player, Ric Cobb, and not Alcindor, who set the city record for most points in
a single game (88) that would stand for 30 years.
In an age when urban removal of the poor was considered good
social practice, many of the brownstones and small apartment buildings around
Commerce had been condemned; scenes from the film of West Side Story were shot
there. Ugly red-brick blocks of housing projects and Lincoln Center itself would
soon erase any evidence of the old tenements. Gone, too, would be the last
remnants of historic San Juan Hill, named for the black men who had fought in
Teddy Roosevelt’s 10th Cavalry against the Spanish in Cuba, and once
the center of African-American life in New York.
Commerce closed the year after I graduated and the big bland
box of the new Julliard School would soon swallow up its space. The
gentrification of the West 60s – and the creation of convenient memories – had
begun.